Something a little different this week. After more than a year of being confined to the same house, not being able to go anywhere or do anything because of COVID-19, I retreated south to Devon for some time away from day-to-day life.
Sunday
After a HORRIBLE drive down – torrential rain that started as I crossed the boarder into Devon, and then I also got lost several times – I arrived at my Airbnb, a really lovely self-contained flat off the side of an old vicarage. It’s a higgledy-piggledy mess of rooms, with the main bedroom off the kitchen, and then the second bedroom under the stairs that lead up to the bathroom. But it has lovely high ceilings, and feels cozy in a grand sort of way.
I didn’t have much time, or energy after the drive, to do anything after arriving, so I put on my waterproofs and went for a quick stroll around Buckfastleigh, the town the Airbnb was based in. The town centre is nice – the sort of narrow streets and old houses with small front doors that are typical for Devonshire towns. There are a few shops, all independent apart from the Co-op, but not a lot was open on a Sunday afternoon.
I wandered randomly, coming across some nice footpaths lined with wild garlic.
And also found a ruined church, which I later discovered burnt down in 1992 after an arson attack. There’s also a tomb there built to contain the evil spirt of some squire who was supposed to be evil…
Monday
As I’d never seen a waterfall because – although, I might have seen one once in the Lake District when I went there on a GCSE Geography field trip, but I can’t remember it so it doesn’t count – I wanted to use my time in Dartmoor to see at least one, as the National Park has quite a few of them. Lydford Gorge with its White Lady Waterfall was a popular choice, so I decided to make that my waterfall trip.
Unfortunately the full gorge walk, with its route through the Devil’s Cauldron was shut due to COVID and maintenance reasons, so I only got to do the short 1 hour walk to the falls, which was a shame – the Devil’s Cauldron looks and sounds awesome! – but the walk along the gorge was still stunning.
You can see a video of the waterfall in action – and hear it roar! – here.
After traversing the gorge, I went to Brentor Church, or St Michael’s Church Brentor, which is a church built on the top of a tor. Dramatic to say the least – although most of Dartmoor is pretty dramatic. But who really in their right mind decides to build a church on the top of a tor?! I feel sorry for the poor builders who had to lug the stone up to the top.
There were some lovely views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the tor. To get from the place I was staying to Lydford and Brentor (which are on the west side of the park) I had to cross the moorlands. I did think about taking the Devon Expressway, which is a major road they’ve built around the park, but I’m glad I didn’t. The narrow roads, which dip and drive at alarming gradients, are pretty harrowing – especially when you meet something coming the other way! – but once you get onto the wider roads that run across the centre of the moor, it’s breath taking.
Tuesday
I sped off down the Devon Expressway in the morning, heading to Drogo Castle, the last castle to be built in England (in about 1920). The National Trust had just spent a couple of million renovating it, and since it was only the second day the castle had been open this year, it was looking rather splendid. The outside is rather ugly – very blocky, almost like Lego – and doesn’t have that detailed charmed that most older castles have. But it was still very grand inside as all castles are. The gardens and views from the estate were stunning.
After spending a few hours looking around the castle and grounds, I pulled on my boots and waterproofs, and headed down into Teign Gorge. The walk takes you down into the gorge along which the River Teign runs. There’s a lovely old stone bridge – Fingle Bridge – at one end and a much newer iron suspension bridge at the other. Again, stunning views, and the river looked so clean and clear. The perfect place for wild swimming if you are that way inclined (bit cold for me!)
Wednesday
I planned out my trip pretty soon after I booked it, without knowing the weather. Somehow, I managed to plan my beach trip on the only sunny day of the week. After two days of being rained on, Wednesday was dry and sunny (if a little chilly, although I was determined to wear shorts at least one day of this holiday).
I had booked tickets to Babbacombe Model Village for late morning, but instead of worrying about parking I decided to get there early to make the most of the town and beach before it started to heave with people. I hadn’t realised how much I had missed the sea until I saw it again.
After taking a short stroll along the beach and dipping my feet in the freezing sea – and witnessing and running away from a mini rock slide! – I went into Babbacombe Model Village. I don’t have a particular interest in model villages, but it was interesting to stroll around for an hour. They have a couple of book and movie set-ups, including a Game of Thrones scene with a fire breathing dragon.
Then I grabbed fish and chips for lunch, which I ate looking out at the sea, wandered down to another beach, then grabbed an ice cream before heading back to the Airbnb. Happy days.
Thursday
My last day in Dartmoor turned into a bit of a downer. My plan was to go to Wistman’s Wood and Windy Cross in the morning, come back for lunch, and then go to Buckfast Abbey in the afternoon. But on my way to Wistman’s Wood the 50mph winds and rain started. My waterproofs were no use and I was soaked before I got back to the car. So I decided to cut the day short and head back to the Airbnb, where I stayed for the rest of the day watching Hook, reading and doing some editing.
Then on Friday I headed back home. I was sad to not get to Buckfast Abbey – as I was only staying a few minutes down the road from it – but I didn’t have time with the my schedule, as the churched closed early at 4pm every day. And I was also sad to not get to Windy Post, but I don’t live too far from Dartmoor, so it’s always possible I could come back for a long weekend and do the bits and pieces I missed out on. Hopefully next time the weather will be nicer!
Bookworm Scribe 